8:43pm -

Experience over profit

You learn a few things about having dinner out the first time you go to Italy. The first thing is that they eat dinner late. Secondly, there’s a chance the kitchen isn’t open when they open. Lastly, try to get a reservation if it’s a restaurant you really want to go to. So when we showed up for what turned out to be our favorite dinner in Florence right at six when they “opened”, they weren’t open, and the kitchen wouldn’t open for another hour and a half. We decided to stay; I’m glad we did.

Outside, hand-painted lettering. Inside, mid-century decor, and a shelf that circled the whole room, lined with empty wine bottles; trophies of connections shared with customers. While we sat, regulars came in and out. Some stayed for dinner, some stood at the bar. He took the time to chat with each of them, before scurrying away after remembering he had others to attend to. Energetic, enthusiastic multitasking, but not rushing, not the rush we were used to.

The hum must have attracted others. Throughout dinner, people kept appearing at the door, and he kept sending them away. He knew exactly how many people he could handle. He turned away a ton of business that night because he wanted to keep the experience good for his customers, his regulars, but also himself. Back home, that would look like bad business. In the States, businesses would put money over experience.

My memories of this night are equal parts the meals served (and described) to us with such detail and care, and how he made us feel while we were there. And the warmth we felt leaving that burrow amongst buildings, its glow spilling out and lighting the darkened street.